7.16.2012

Dihedral of Horrors (5.9)

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money pitch
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This daunting route was first climbed in 1967 (Behrens and Avenali1), but wasn't climbed free (without the use of aiding) until 1981 (Boynton and Grand1), which was around the same time that spring-loaded camming devices became popular. Mike and I had heard that this climb was a lot of fun and we were happy to follow another group of climbers all the way to the base of the climb. After a couple of easy pitches of 5.7 we got to the money pitch, where the main dihedral starts. It looked steep. Tiny finger cracks, a little section of overhang, great feet and solid protection got our adrenaline going and we flew up the toughest pitch either of us had climbed on trad this year.


1 A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range Third Edition

 By Leigh N. Ortenburger, Reynold G. Jackson, Mountaineers Books, November 1, 1996.

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